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Outline stitches · Easy

Holbein stitch

Holbein stitch, also called double running stitch, is a solid line made in two passes of running stitch. The first pass leaves a space after every stitch and the second pass fills the spaces, so the line looks the same on the front and the back of the fabric.

How to work it

  1. Come up at the start of the line

    A dotted pattern line. The needle comes up at point A, the start of the line at the right.

    The first journey is plain running stitch, worked here from right to left. Bring the needle up at A.

  2. Go down one stitch along

    The thread comes out at A and the needle goes down at B, one stitch length to the left.

    Push the needle down at B. On evenweave fabric, count the threads so every stitch covers the same number.

  3. Leave a space the same length

    The first stitch lies from A to B. Under the fabric the thread travels one full stitch length, and the needle comes up at C, leaving a space as long as the stitch.

    Bring the needle up at C, exactly one stitch length past B. The space you leave has to be as long as the stitch, because another stitch will fill it later.

  4. Finish the first journey

    The first journey is finished: three stitches, A to B, C to D and E to F, with a space as long as a stitch between each pair.

    Carry on to the end of the line: down at D, up at E, down at F. You now have a row of evenly spaced running stitches.

  5. Turn back and fill the spaces

    The second journey comes back along the line. The thread has come up at E and the needle goes down at D, filling the space between two stitches of the first journey.

    Work back the other way. Come up at E and go down at D, using the holes that are already there. Then come up at C and go down at B.

  6. The finished line

    The finished line: five stitches meeting end to end with no spaces, the same on the front and the back of the fabric.

    When the second journey reaches the start, every space is filled. The line is solid on both sides of the fabric.

At a glance

Also called
double running stitch, line stitch, two-sided line stitch, Spanish stitch
Used for
blackwork patterns and outlines; reversible embroidery such as collars and cuffs; outlines on counted cross stitch and Assisi work; borders on evenweave fabric
Thread
One strand of six-strand floss gives a very fine line. Two strands make a heavier outline.
Needle
A tapestry needle, size 24 or 26, on evenweave fabric. Its blunt tip slips into the holes without piercing the fabric threads. On plain-weave fabric use a sharp embroidery (crewel) needle.

Tips

  • Holbein stitch is usually worked on evenweave fabric, where you can count threads to keep every stitch the same length.
  • On plain-weave fabric it is much harder to keep the stitches and spaces even, because there are no threads to count.
  • Before you start a pattern with side branches, work out the route, so the return journey can fill every space without extra stitches on the back.
  • Avoid knots, so the back stays as neat as the front. Finish a thread by running it through stitches that are already worked.

When it goes wrong

The second pass does not fit the spaces
The stitches and spaces of the first journey were not equal. Count the fabric threads for every stitch and every space.
The needle splits the thread of the first journey
Use a blunt tapestry needle on evenweave fabric. Its tip slips into the holes and is less likely to pierce a thread.
The back does not match the front
Check that every space was filled on the return journey, and plan the route so no extra stitches are needed on the back.

Left-handed

Work the first journey from left to right and come back from right to left. Mirror the diagrams.

Variations

  • Running stitch. The first journey on its own: a dashed line with spaces left open.
  • Back stitch. Looks similar from the front and is worked in one pass, but the back is a line of overlapping thread, so it is not reversible.
  • Two-color Holbein stitch. The second journey is worked in a different color, so the line alternates between the two.

Patterns that use it

Questions

Is Holbein stitch the same as double running stitch?
Yes. They are two names for the same stitch. It is also called line stitch or two-sided line stitch.
What is the difference between Holbein stitch and back stitch?
From the front they look similar. Holbein stitch is made in two passes of running stitch and looks the same on the back. Back stitch is made in one pass and leaves an overlapping line on the back.
Why is it called Holbein stitch?
The name is credited to Hans Holbein the Younger, a portrait painter of the 1500s. His portraits show sitters wearing blackwork, such as embroidered cuffs.
Can you do Holbein stitch on plain fabric?
Yes, but it is harder to keep the stitches and spaces equal without a grid of threads to count. It is usually worked on evenweave fabric.

Where to go next

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