Outline stitches · Beginner
Back stitch
Back stitch makes a solid, unbroken line of short stitches that meet end to end. Each stitch is made backward, into the end of the one before it, which is where the name comes from.
How to work it
Come up one stitch from the start
Right-handed stitchers usually work back stitch from right to left. Bring the needle up at A, one stitch length in from the start of the line, and pull the thread through.
Go down at the start of the line
Take the needle backward and push it down at B, the very start of the line. Pull the thread until the stitch lies flat on the fabric.
Come up one stitch ahead
Under the fabric, move one stitch length past the end of your first stitch. Bring the needle up at C.
Go back down into the last stitch
Push the needle down at A, in the same hole where the first stitch ends. Sharing the hole is what closes the gap between stitches.
Repeat along the line
Keep going: up one stitch ahead, then back down into the end of the last stitch. Aim for stitches that are all the same length.
At a glance
- Also called
- backstitch
- Used for
- outlines; lettering; straight and curved lines; a base for whipped and threaded stitches
- Thread
- With six-strand cotton floss, two or three strands give a clear outline. Use one strand for fine detail and small lettering, and all six for a bold, chunky line.
- Needle
- An embroidery (crewel) needle. A size 8 suits two strands and a size 9 or 10 suits one. Use a larger needle, which has a lower number, when you stitch with all six strands.
Tips
- Keep the stitches small and all the same length. A small design calls for smaller stitches than a large one.
- Shorten your stitches as you go around curves so the line bends smoothly. On long straight stretches they can be a little longer.
- Go down into the exact hole at the end of the last stitch. Landing short of it leaves a gap in the line.
- Pull each stitch until it lies flat, then stop. Stitches pulled too tight can pucker the fabric.
When it goes wrong
- Small gaps show between the stitches
- Bring the needle down in the same hole as the end of the last stitch, not next to it.
- The line looks wobbly
- Place every hole directly on the pattern line and keep the stitch length the same. Very short stitches on a long straight stretch can make the line look bumpy.
- Curves look like a row of straight pieces
- Use shorter stitches on the curve. The tighter the curve, the shorter the stitch.
- The fabric puckers along the line
- Ease off on the pull, and keep the fabric taut in a hoop.
Left-handed
Work from left to right instead. Mirror the diagrams: come up one stitch length to the right of the start, then go back down to the left.
Variations
- Whipped back stitch. A second thread is wrapped over each back stitch without going through the fabric, giving a smooth, rope-like line.
- Threaded back stitch. A second thread is woven up and down under the stitches for a wavy, decorative line.
- Split back stitch. The needle goes down through the end of the previous stitch, splitting its thread, not into the hole beside it. The line looks a little like a chain.
Patterns that use it
Questions
- What is the difference between back stitch and running stitch?
- Running stitch leaves a gap between stitches, so the line looks dashed. Back stitch returns to the end of the last stitch each time, so the line is solid.
- How long should back stitches be?
- There is no fixed length. It depends on the size of the design: a small pattern calls for smaller stitches than a large one. Keep them all the same length, and make them shorter on curves.
- Is back stitch good for lettering?
- Yes. It works well for simple printed lettering. Use small, even stitches. On letters with many tight curves it can look a little blocky.
- Why does the back of my back stitch look thicker than the front?
- That is normal. On the back the thread overlaps itself, so each stitch is doubled there. It also means back stitch uses more thread than running stitch.