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Crossed stitches · Beginner

Cross stitch

Cross stitch is two short diagonal stitches that cross in the middle to make an X. In surface embroidery it is used on its own, in rows or as a filling. On evenweave fabric the same stitch, worked from a chart, builds whole counted pictures.

How to work it

  1. Come up at the bottom left

    A row of four dotted squares. The needle comes up at point A, the bottom left corner of the first square.

    Think of each cross as sitting in a small square. Bring the needle up at A, the bottom left corner of the first square.

  2. Go down at the top right

    The thread comes out at A and the needle goes down at B, the top right corner of the same square, laying a diagonal stitch.

    Take the needle down at B, the top right corner. This first diagonal is called a half stitch.

  3. Come up at the bottom right

    The first diagonal lies from A to B. Under the fabric the thread drops straight down, and the needle comes up at C, the bottom right corner, directly below B.

    Bring the needle up at C, the bottom right corner, straight below B. On the back the thread makes a short upright stitch.

  4. Cross over to the top left

    The thread comes out at C and the needle goes down at D, the top left corner, so the second diagonal crosses over the first and makes an X.

    Take the needle down at D, the top left corner, so the second diagonal lies over the first. That is one complete cross.

  5. Work a row in two passes

    A row worked in two passes. Every square already has a diagonal slanting up to the right. On the way back from right to left, the two squares on the right have been crossed with a second diagonal.

    For a row, stitch a half stitch in every square from left to right. Then come back from right to left, crossing each one. It is quicker than finishing one cross at a time.

  6. Keep every top stitch the same

    A finished row of four cross stitches. In every cross the top stitch slants the same way, up to the left.

    In a finished row the top stitches all slant the same way. Stick to one direction through the whole piece, even when you stitch crosses one at a time.

At a glance

Also called
sampler stitch, point de croix
Used for
borders and outlines; filling patterns and shapes; marking linens; counted cross stitch from a chart
Thread
Match the number of strands to the fabric and the size of the cross. Three strands of six-strand floss is a good place to start on ordinary cotton fabric. Use fewer strands on finer fabric.
Needle
On Aida and other evenweave fabric, use a blunt tapestry needle, which slips through the holes without piercing the fabric threads. On plain fabric with no holes to follow, use a sharp embroidery (crewel) needle.

Tips

  • Plain fabric has no grid to follow, so supply one: waste canvas, water-soluble canvas, or a stick-on soluble stabilizer printed with a grid of dots.
  • Decide which way the top stitch slants and keep to it everywhere. A top stitch that slants the other way changes how the shade looks.
  • For a neat back, work level rows in two passes and upright rows one cross at a time.
  • Finishing each cross before the next is the more secure way. Working a row in two passes is faster.

When it goes wrong

Some crosses look different from the rest
Their top stitches slant the other way. Unpick them and cross them in the same direction as the others.
The crosses are different sizes or lean over
Each cross needs a true square, with both legs the same length. On fabric with no grid, stitch through waste canvas or water-soluble canvas.

Left-handed

The stitch is the same. You can mirror the diagrams: start each cross at the bottom right and work the first pass of a row from right to left. Any order works as long as every top stitch slants the same way.

Variations

  • Half cross stitch. Only one diagonal is worked. On canvas this is known as tent stitch.
  • Upright cross stitch. One vertical and one horizontal stitch make a plus sign instead of an X. In rows, each row fits into the spaces of the one before.
  • Double cross stitch. An upright cross and a diagonal cross are worked one over the other to make an eight-pointed star.
  • Long-armed cross stitch. One leg of each cross is twice as long as the other, so the crosses overlap and form a plaited band.

Questions

Is cross stitch the same as embroidery?
Cross stitch is one kind of embroidery. Counted cross stitch uses this one stitch on gridded fabric and follows a chart. Surface embroidery follows a drawn design and mixes many stitches, and cross stitch is one of them.
Which stitch goes on top in a cross stitch?
Either can, as long as it is the same in every cross. A common way is to stitch from bottom left to top right first, then cross from bottom right to top left.
Can you do cross stitch on regular fabric?
Yes, but plain fabric has no grid, so you have to supply one. Baste waste canvas or water-soluble canvas on top and stitch through it. Waste canvas threads are pulled out afterward, and soluble canvas dissolves in water.