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Chain stitches · Beginner

Chain stitch

Chain stitch is a row of linked loops that looks like a chain. It follows outlines and curves well, and rows of it worked side by side can fill a shape.

How to work it

  1. Come up at the start

    A dotted pattern line. The needle comes up at point A, the start of the line at the right.

    Chain stitch is often worked toward you, from the top of the line down. These pictures run from right to left. Bring the needle up at A, at the start of the line, and pull the thread through.

  2. Go back down and leave a loop

    The needle goes back down at A, the same hole it came up through. The thread is not pulled tight: it lies in a loose loop on the fabric, held in place by a thumb.

    Put the needle back down at A, in the same hole. Pull slowly and stop while a loop of thread still lies on the fabric. Hold the loop down with your thumb.

  3. Come up inside the loop

    The loop lies along the line. The needle comes up at point B, one stitch length along, inside the loop, so the loop passes under the needle.

    Bring the needle up at B, one stitch length along the line. Make sure it comes up inside the loop, with the loop lying under the needle.

  4. Pull the loop snug

    The needle and thread are pulled through at B until the loop closes into a rounded chain link from A to B, held in shape by the thread coming up inside it.

    Pull the thread through until the loop closes around it and forms a rounded link. Stop before the link pulls into a thin, tight line.

  5. Start the next link inside the last

    The needle has gone back down at B, inside the first link, leaving a new loop. It comes up at C, one stitch length along, inside the new loop.

    Go back down at B, inside the link you just made, and leave a new loop. Come up at C, one stitch length along and inside the new loop, then pull snug.

  6. Anchor the last loop

    A chain of three links. At the end the needle goes down at E, just outside the last loop, making a tiny stitch over the loop that holds it in place.

    To finish, come up inside the last loop as usual, then go down at E, just outside it. This tiny stitch over the end of the loop holds the chain in place.

At a glance

Also called
chainstitch, point de chainette
Used for
outlines; stems and curved lines; lettering; borders; filling shapes in rows
Thread
Three strands of six-strand floss work well for chain stitch. Use more strands for a heavier chain and fewer for a finer one. With all six strands, keep the links small.
Needle
An embroidery (crewel) needle. A size 7 suits three strands of floss. Use a larger needle (a lower number) for more strands and a finer one for fewer. For wool or other thick thread, a chenille needle has a longer eye and a sharp point.

Tips

  • Keep the links the same length. About 1/8 inch (3 mm) is a good length for most lines. Keep them small around curves so the curve does not flatten.
  • Pull each loop only until it is snug around the thread. Pulling too tight can pucker the fabric, most of all on curved lines.
  • Hold the working thread down with your thumb while the needle comes up inside the loop.
  • Once the stitch feels familiar, you can go down at A and come up at B in one scooping motion, with the loop under the needle tip. This works best when you hold the fabric in your hand, without a hoop.

When it goes wrong

The loop disappears when I pull
The needle came up outside the loop. Bring it up inside the loop so the thread catches it.
The links look thin and tight
Ease off. Stop pulling as soon as the loop touches the thread coming up through it.
The links are different sizes
Take the needle down and bring it up as two separate moves, holding the loop open. It is easier to judge the length of each link that way.
The chain comes undone at the end
Always finish with a tiny stitch over the last loop before you fasten off on the back.

Left-handed

Work from left to right. Mirror the diagrams, and hold each loop down with your right thumb while your left hand brings the needle up inside it.

Variations

  • Lazy daisy. A single chain link held down with a tiny stitch, also called detached chain stitch. Worked in a ring, the links make flower petals.
  • Twisted chain stitch. The needle goes down beside the last link instead of inside it, which twists each loop and gives a rope-like line.
  • Reverse chain stitch. Each new link is made by sliding the needle under the link before it, without piercing the fabric. It looks much the same as ordinary chain stitch.

Patterns that use it

111 patterns use this stitch: all hand embroidery patterns

Questions

Is chain stitch hard for beginners?
No. It is one of the most common embroidery stitches and the simplest of the chain stitch family. The one thing to watch is bringing the needle up inside the loop every time.
How do you end a chain stitch?
Make a tiny straight stitch over the far end of the last loop, then fasten off on the back. Without it, the last loop can pull out.
How do you join chain stitch into a circle?
Stop one link short of the start. Slide the needle under the first link without piercing the fabric, then go back down inside your last link. The join looks like one more link.
Can you fill a shape with chain stitch?
Yes. Work rows of chain stitch side by side, starting along the outline and working inward, until the shape is covered. It gives a solid fill.
What is the difference between chain stitch and lazy daisy?
Lazy daisy is one chain link on its own, held down with a tiny stitch. Chain stitch links many loops in a row.

Where to go next

Stitches

Guides