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Looped stitches · Easy

Feather stitch

Feather stitch is a row of open V-shaped loops set to the right and left by turns, each one caught by the next. It makes a branching line that suits vines, twigs and coral.

How to work it

  1. Come up at the top

    Four dotted upright guide lines. The needle comes up at point A, at the top of the second line from the left.

    Feather stitch is worked from the top down, toward you. Picture four upright lines, or draw them. Bring the needle up at A, at the top of the second line.

  2. Go down to the right, level with A

    The needle goes down at point B on the far right line, level with A. The thread is left loose so that a loop hangs between A and B, held by a thumb.

    Put the needle down at B on the far right line, level with A. Pull slowly and stop while a loop of thread still hangs on the fabric. Hold the loop with your thumb.

  3. Come up inside the loop

    The loose loop hangs between A and B. The needle comes up at point C on the third line, lower down and halfway between A and B, inside the loop.

    Bring the needle up at C on the third line, lower down and halfway between A and B. It must come up inside the loop. Pull through until the loop forms a V.

  4. Make the next loop to the left

    The first loop is pulled into a V. A new loose loop runs from C across to point D on the far left line, level with C. The needle comes up at point E on the second line, lower down, inside the new loop.

    Go down at D on the far left line, level with C, and leave a loop. Come up at E on the second line, lower down and inside the loop, then pull snug.

  5. Then to the right again

    Two loops are in place, one to the right and one to the left. A new loose loop runs from E to point F on the far right line. The needle comes up at point G on the third line, inside the loop.

    Go down at F on the far right line, level with E, and leave a loop. Come up at G on the third line, inside the loop. Keep going, right and left by turns.

  6. Finish with a holding stitch

    A finished row of feather stitch: five open V loops, set to the right and left by turns down a zigzag spine, ending in a small holding stitch.

    After the last loop, go down just below the point where the thread came up, on the outside of the loop. That small stitch holds the last V in place.

At a glance

Also called
briar stitch, single coral stitch
Used for
vines, twigs and branches; borders; covering seams in crazy quilting; decorating smocks and plain sewing; coral in underwater scenes
Thread
Three strands of six-strand floss is a good place to start. Use more strands for a heavier line and fewer for a finer one.
Needle
An embroidery (crewel) needle. A size 7 suits three strands of floss. Use a larger needle (a lower number) for more strands and a finer one for fewer. For wool or other thick thread, a chenille needle has a longer eye and a sharp point.

Tips

  • Draw four parallel lines to keep the row symmetrical. The thread always comes up on one of the two middle lines.
  • Space the stitches evenly and keep the drop from one to the next the same.
  • Pull each loop until it is snug against the thread and lies flat.
  • Feather stitch takes curves well. Keep the middle of the row on the design line.
  • Once the stitch feels familiar, you can go down and come up in one slanting scoop with the thread under the needle tip.

When it goes wrong

A loop pulls straight and disappears
The needle came up outside the loop. Bring it up inside, so the loop lies under the needle before you pull.
The row drifts to one side
The stitches on one side are wider than on the other. Use guide lines and go down on the outer line every time.
The loops are uneven sizes
Keep each new point level with the last place the thread came up, and the same distance lower each time.
The last stitch comes undone
End with a small holding stitch over the last loop before you fasten off on the back.

Left-handed

Mirror the diagrams and make the first loop to the left. Hold each loop with your right thumb. The row looks the same when it is done.

Variations

  • Double feather stitch. Two loops are made to one side, then two to the other, which gives a wider band. With one more loop each way it is sometimes called triple feather stitch.
  • Closed feather stitch. Worked between two lines. The needle goes down just outside the last loop and comes up lower on the same line, so each stitch closes into a triangle.
  • Single feather stitch. Every loop is made on the same side of the line. It is a slanted version of blanket stitch.
  • Fly stitch. One of the same loops on its own, held down with a small straight stitch.
  • Cretan stitch. A relative with the loops set more widely apart. It is also called long-armed feather stitch.

Questions

What is feather stitch used for?
Vines, twigs, branches and coral, decorative borders, and the seams in crazy quilting. It was also used on English smocks.
Is feather stitch hard to learn?
No. It is the same loop repeated to the right and left. Drawing four guide lines helps keep the row symmetrical.
How do you end a row of feather stitch?
Make a small straight stitch over the bottom of the last loop, just as you would to hold a fly stitch, then fasten off on the back.
What is the difference between feather stitch and fly stitch?
Fly stitch is a single loop with its own holding stitch. Feather stitch joins the loops in a row, so each loop is held by the one after it and only the last needs a holding stitch.