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Outline stitches · Beginner

Outline stitch

Outline stitch is the mirror twin of stem stitch. It is worked the same way, with each stitch starting halfway back along the one before, but the thread is held above the line instead of below it. The result is a rope-like line that twists the opposite way.

How to work it

  1. Come up at the start of the line

    A dotted pattern line. The needle comes up at point A, the start of the line at the left.

    Right-handed stitchers work outline stitch from left to right. Bring the needle up at A, at the left end of the line.

  2. Go down one stitch along, leave a loop

    The needle goes down at point B, one stitch length to the right of A. The thread is not pulled tight: it lies in a loose loop above the line.

    Push the needle down at B, one stitch length along the line. Do not pull the thread tight yet. Leave a small loop on the surface and hold it above the line, away from you.

  3. Come up halfway back

    The loop lies above the line from A to B. The needle comes up at point C, on the line halfway between A and B, below the loop.

    Bring the needle up at C, on the line halfway between A and B, with the loop still above the needle. Then pull the thread through until the first stitch lies flat.

  4. Go down half a stitch past the last

    The first stitch lies flat from A to B. The thread comes out at C and the needle goes down at D, half a stitch length past B, again leaving the thread in a loop above the line.

    Push the needle down at D, a full stitch length from C. That is half a stitch past B. Leave a loop above the line again.

  5. Come up at the end of the last stitch

    With the new loop lying above the line from C to D, the needle comes up at B, in the hole where the first stitch ended.

    Bring the needle up at B, in the hole where the first stitch ended, with the loop above the needle. Pull the thread through.

  6. Repeat along the line

    A finished row of outline stitch: overlapping stitches that form a rope-like line, twisting the opposite way from stem stitch.

    Keep going: down a full stitch ahead, then up in the hole where the last finished stitch ended. The thread stays above the line for every stitch.

At a glance

Used for
outlining shapes; stems and leaf veins; borders; filling a shape with rows worked side by side
Thread
Two or three strands of six-strand floss give a clear line. One strand makes a fine line for small detail. All six strands make a bold one.
Needle
An embroidery (crewel) needle. A size 8 suits two strands and a size 9 or 10 suits one. Use a larger needle, which has a lower number, for all six strands.

Tips

  • Pick a side for the thread and never change it within a line. Worked left to right, thread above the line is outline stitch and thread below the line is stem stitch.
  • Keep the stitches equal in length, and shorten them on tight curves.
  • Turn the hoop as you go, so you always stitch in the same direction and the thread stays on the same side.
  • Once the movement feels familiar, you can go down at B and come up at C in one scooping motion, with the thread held above the needle.

When it goes wrong

One stitch twists the wrong way
The thread slipped below the needle for that stitch. Unpick back to it and keep the thread above the line every time.
The line looks like separate dashes, not a rope
Come up in the hole where the last finished stitch ended, so each stitch overlaps half of the one before it.
Curves look angular
Shorten the stitches on the curve. Very short stitches follow a tight bend smoothly.
A pattern calls for outline stitch and it is not clear which stitch is meant
Outline stitch and stem stitch are easy to confuse, and the two names are sometimes used for each other. Line stitches in general are also called outline stitches. Stem stitch, outline stitch, back stitch and split stitch will all outline a shape.

Left-handed

Work from right to left and keep the thread below the line. Stitching in that direction, thread below the line is what gives the outline stitch twist. The stem stitch diagrams, mirrored, show the movement.

Variations

  • Stem stitch. The same stitch with the thread held below the line, so the rope twists the other way.
  • Outline stitch filling. Rows of outline stitch worked close together until a shape is filled.

Patterns that use it

Questions

Is outline stitch the same as stem stitch?
Almost. Both are worked the same way, but in stem stitch the thread is kept below the needle and in outline stitch it is kept above. The lines twist in opposite directions. The two names are sometimes used for the same thing.
What stitches can I use to outline embroidery?
Back stitch, stem stitch, outline stitch and split stitch are all used for outlines. Stem stitch and outline stitch take curves well. Chain stitch makes a thicker line.
When should I use outline stitch instead of stem stitch?
Use it when you want the twist of the line to run the other way from stem stitch.
How long should outline stitches be?
There is no fixed length. Decide on a length, keep every stitch the same, and make them shorter on tight curves.

Where to go next

Stitches

Guides