Satin stitch

How to work it

1. Come up in the middle of one edge

   

   Start in the middle of the shape, not at one end. The first stitch sets the angle for all the others. Bring the needle up at A, right on the outline.

2. Go down straight across

   

   Take the needle down at B, on the outline straight across the shape. Pull until the stitch lies flat without denting the fabric.

3. Come up right next to A

   

   Under the fabric, go back to the side you started on and bring the needle up at C, right next to A. The thread crosses the back of the shape just as it does the front.

4. Lay the next stitch beside the first

   

   Go down at D, right next to B. The new stitch should touch the first one, with no gap and no overlap.

5. Fill one half, then the other

   

   Keep adding stitches side by side until you reach the end of the shape. Then go back to the middle and fill the other half the same way.

6. The finished shape

   

   Every stitch starts and ends on the outline, so the edge is crisp and the fabric is covered.

At a glance

Also called

damask stitch

Used for

petals and leaves; small solid shapes; monograms and lettering; dots

Thread

One strand of six-strand floss gives a smoother surface than two or more in the needle at once. Soft threads that are not meant to be divided, such as floche or coton a broder, also work well. Pearl cotton has a tighter twist and looks bumpier.

Needle

An embroidery (crewel) needle with a sharp point. A size 9 or 10 suits one strand of floss and a size 7 suits about three.

Tips

• Outline the shape first in split stitch, then bring your satin stitches up and down just outside that outline. It gives a crisp, neat edge.
• Keep stitches to about 3/8 to 1/2 inch (10 to 12 mm) at most. Longer stitches tend to work loose. Divide a large shape into sections, or switch to long and short stitch.
• A single strand gives a smoother surface than two or more in the needle at once. If you do use more than one strand, a laying tool helps keep the stitches smooth.
• Before you take the first stitch down, hold the thread across the shape to set its angle. On a curved shape, think about which slant will let the stitches turn gradually.
• Keep the fabric taut in a hoop.

When it goes wrong

Fabric shows between the stitches

Place each stitch closer to the last so they touch.

The edge looks jagged

Make sure every stitch ends exactly on the line. Outlining the shape in split stitch first and stitching just over the outline helps keep the edge smooth.

The surface looks bumpy or uneven

Use a single strand, or a soft thread that is not meant to be divided. With more than one strand in the needle, use a laying tool to keep the stitches smooth.

The fabric puckers

The stitches are pulled too tight or the fabric is slack. Tighten the hoop and pull each stitch only until it lies flat.

The stitch angle drifts as the shape fills

Start in the middle, set the angle with the first stitch, and work outward toward each end in turn.

Left-handed

Nothing about the stitch changes. Start in the middle and fill toward whichever end is comfortable first.

Variations

• Padded satin stitch. A layer of padding stitches is worked inside the shape first, then satin stitch goes over the top, so the shape stands up a little from the fabric.
• Slanted satin stitch. The stitches lie at an angle across the shape instead of straight across. It is typical for monograms, leaves and petals.
• Long and short stitch. Rows of straight stitches that work into one another fill shapes that are too large for satin stitch and allow shading from one color to the next.

Patterns that use it

Intermediate · 5 colors

Primrose oval frame

Intermediate · 3 colors

Aster mandala

Intermediate · 3 colors

Trellis stitch pineapple

Intermediate · 3 colors

Horseshoe with a shamrock

Easy · 5 colors

Good cheer

Easy · 5 colors

I’m done adulting

1,270 patterns use this stitch: all hand embroidery patterns →