Filling stitches · Easy
Padded satin stitch
Padded satin stitch is satin stitch worked over a layer of stitches that fills the shape first. The padding lifts the satin surface off the fabric, so the shape looks rounded and catches the light.
How to work it
Outline the shape
Stitch around the shape on the pattern line with small split stitches or back stitches. The outline gives the finished shape a firm, even edge.
Fill the inside with padding
Fill the area inside the outline with straight stitches. Lay them across the direction your satin stitches will take. They do not need to be neat, because they will be covered.
Come up just outside the outline
Start the satin stitch in the middle of the shape. Bring the needle up at A, just outside the outline stitches.
Go down straight across
Take the needle down at B, just outside the outline on the far side. The stitch should cross the padding at a right angle and lie snug over it.
Cover one half, then the other
Lay stitches side by side, each one starting and ending just outside the outline, until you reach the edge of the shape. Go back to the middle and cover the other half.
The finished shape
The padding and the outline are covered. The shape stands up from the fabric with a smooth, rounded surface.
At a glance
- Also called
- raised satin stitch
- Used for
- dots and other small raised shapes; petals; whitework; crewelwork and stumpwork
- Thread
- The padding can be worked in a thicker thread, or more strands, than the top layer. For the top layer, a single strand of floss gives the smoothest surface.
- Needle
- An embroidery (crewel) needle with a sharp point. Use the smallest needle that takes your thread, because a small needle passes through thick padding more easily.
Tips
- Keep the padding inside the outline. For a domed shape, start with a small layer in the middle and make each layer a little bigger than the last.
- For more height, add another layer of padding at a different angle from the first. Whatever the number of layers, the last one should run across the direction of the satin stitches.
- Straight stitches, split stitch, chain stitch and stem stitch all work as padding. Long straight stitches suit small, simple shapes. Rows of split stitch suit long, narrow or curved ones.
- The padding can be worked in a thicker thread than the top layer.
- Start the top layer with a fresh length of thread. Worn thread does not look as good on the surface.
When it goes wrong
- Padding shows between the satin stitches
- Lay the top stitches closer together, so each one touches the last.
- The edge of the shape looks ragged
- Bring every satin stitch up and down just outside the outline stitches, so the outline is fully wrapped.
- The top surface looks uneven
- Keep the surface of the padding smooth, and make sure its last layer runs across the direction of the satin stitches.
- The shape looks flat
- Add another layer of padding in the middle of the shape.
- The fabric puckers around the shape
- Keep the fabric taut in a hoop and do not pull the stitches too tight.
Left-handed
Nothing about the stitch changes. Cover the shape in whichever direction is comfortable, starting from the middle.
Variations
- Satin stitch. The same top layer worked straight onto the fabric, with no padding. It lies flat.
- Outlined satin stitch. Satin stitch worked over a split stitch outline only, with no filling inside. It lies flat and smooth, with a neat edge.
- Felt padding. A piece of wool felt cut to fit inside the outline is tacked down and stitched over. It takes less time than several layers of padding stitches.
Patterns that use it
Questions
- What do you use to pad satin stitch?
- Most often more stitches: straight stitches, split stitch or chain stitch, worked inside the outline. A small piece of wool felt is another option.
- Which way should the padding stitches run?
- The last layer of padding should run across the direction of the top stitches, at a right angle to them. If there are several layers, work each one at a different angle from the one before.
- Is padded satin stitch harder than satin stitch?
- It takes more steps: an outline, the padding, then the satin stitch. The padding also supports the top stitches and helps hold them in place, so they can be a little longer than plain satin stitches.
- How many layers of padding do I need?
- As many as the height you want. Each layer is worked at a different angle from the one before, and the last one runs across the direction of the satin stitches.